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Under the Skin: Understanding Raw Material and Country of Origin

At the heart of the leather industry lies the cowhide, a raw material that has been utilised for centuries in the creation of various types of leather products. It’s known for being strong, durable, and versatile, making it the perfect material for numerous industries.

Understanding the structure of cowhide can be useful to better appreciate the skill involved in making leather products, and will help give more informed advice to your end customer.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FINEST LEATHER:

LAYER OF THE LEATHER HIDE:

The quality of the leather can also depend on other factors, most notably the layer of the leather hide. The animal’s hide is split into three sections;

  • Grain
  • Grain and Corium Junction
  • Corium

Layer of the leather hide

FULL GRAIN:

Full grain refers to the strongest and most durable part of the hide, which has not been sanded, buffed or snuffed. It’s also the highest quality leather, and absorbs oils and develops a patina over time.

TOP GRAIN:

The top grain is the second highest grade of leather and has had the outermost layer of hide removed. The surface is sanded to remove imperfections, which pigmentation or staining is then applied. This grain is smoother and more flexible in comparison to full grain/.

SPLIT LEATHER

The split layer of leather, often referred to as “split leather,” is derived from the underside of the hide once the top grain (the outer layer) has been separated. Split leather has various uses, depending on its treatment and finish including suede and pigmented leather.

THE COUNTRY OF ORIGIN, DOES IT MATTER?

Animals produce hides of different qualities due to their genetics and the environments they live in. For instance, in hot climates they’re more prone to insect bites, which can leave scars on their hides. Whereas, in colder climates pests are less prevalent, resulting in hides with fewer of these marks and scars.

Additionally, certain breeds of animals have thicker skins or more protective hair, which can also impact the quality of the hides they produce. When it comes to making our finished products, at Crest, we source hides from both Europe, and Brazil.

Each territory offers hides with unique characteristics. By carefully selecting hides from these territories, we ensure that our finished products meet the highest standards of quality and durability.

EUROPEAN vs BRAZILIAN:

While it’s true that no two hides are ever the same, the diagrams below offer a general representation of the typical shape and size of both types of hides.

These illustrations serve as a useful guide, providing an indication of the types of panel sizes that can be cut from a hide measuring 54 square feet or 5 square meters. (1 meter = 10.7642 sq ft).

 

Brazilian  European

 

LEATHER’S NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS:

The scratches, wounds, and grazes that can leave permanent marks on leather aren’t flaws; rather they’re proof of its natural origin.

In fact, the presence of these marks indicates the authenticity of the leather. Let’s take a look at some of the most common marks and imperfections you may see on the leather;

SCARS:

Scars on leather is common and can occur in various ways, but is mainly caused by sharp objects grazing or cutting the surface of the leather, most commonly from barbed wire fences or thorny brambles.

VEINS:

Bulging veins on leather is caused by the natural structure of the animal’s skin. These veins create raised lines or patterns on the leather surface, adding character to the material.

FIRE BRANDS:

Fire branding is a traditional method of permanently marking cattle for identification purposes. This method allows others to easily distinguish them, ensuring appropriate ownership and therefore making it easier to manage.

WRINKLES:

You’ll often see wrinkles around the neck, shoulders, and bellies too, generally where there is a lot of stretch and movement.

THE FINAL PRODUCT:

Our hides at Crest, sourced from Europe and Brazil, are incredibly versatile. They’ve been used in a wide range of industries, from hospitality to automotive, demonstrating how adaptable and useful our materials are.

BOCCA BOCCA, LONDON:

Bocca Bocca features our signature Shelly Iceblast leather, which is a solid embossed pebble grain colour, this gives off a modern feel that guests experience as soon as they walk in.

PRIME & PROPER, DETROIT:

Our Saloon Blush leather highlighted in Detroit’s luxury dining restaurant, ‘Prime & Proper’ presents a distressed, crackle effect, alongside a waxy feel, as its origin traces back to South America.